Many a New Yorker dreams of wide-open spaces for vacation: to get far away from anything that even remotely resembles the claustrophobic, towering avenues of Midtown. So it’s little surprise that ranch resorts of the American West exert an almost magical pull on us, with their promises of peaceful horseback riding, miles-long vistas of craggy mountains, and—perhaps most unbelievable—even the chance to see actual stars in the night sky.
Within a certain, travel-savvy subset of city dwellers, intel on these properties is traded like playing cards: “Have you heard of Dunton Hot Springs? How was your fall trip to The Ranch at Rock Creek?” But if my own penchant for luxury ranches is any indication, there’s one name that gets passed around more than any other: Paws Up Montana, and more specifically, their adults-only accommodations, The Green O.
The overall Paws Up property, which spans 37,000 woodland acres in the tiny township of Greenough, has made its reputation by balancing rugged, exhilarating activities with an equal dose of pampering. Think mornings spent gallivanting on ATVs or mountain bikes, followed by a leisurely afternoon spa appointment. And in the intimate world of The Green O—which consists of just a dozen freestanding accommodations known as hauses—the care afforded to guests is even more evident. To start, there’s James Beard Award-nominated chef Brandon Cunningham in the kitchen at the guests-only restaurant, plus private outdoor hot tubs and toasty fireplaces set amongst floor-to-ceiling windows in the hauses.
The Green O’s smaller size (the larger Paws Up property consists of 28 vacation homes), the privacy of the hauses and its very own dining facility, Social Haus, also make it undeniably romantic. And indeed, it’s the most popular spot on property for moons of all kinds: be it mini, baby or the classic honey. There are overt nods to love—only king-size beds in the rooms, a few decorative hearts scattered in the decor—but the environment also lends itself to the feeling: the elegant beauty and heady scent of the pine trees that dot the nearby hillsides; the deep, cottony quiet that blankets the grounds once night falls.
You certainly could spend a whole long weekend solely in your haus: I stayed in the two-floor Tree Haus, which is perched 23 feet above the ground and features a full-size living room with overstuffed chairs, a soaking tub and two balconies. But, you likely didn’t fly all the way into Missoula to watch the splendor of these Western skies from the comfort of your bedroom window. Navigating the thousands of acres of the greater Paws Up property can take many forms, especially depending on the time of year. During the summer high season, white water rafting, fly fishing and shooting sports are popular pursuits with guests. But if you opt to visit during the chillier months, as I did in December, you’ll still have the chance to explore the outdoors, only with the added bonus of a fresh blanket of snow.
I happened to arrive just as the first storm of the season hit, which meant I was able to experience the one activity for which I’d been furiously hoping: dog sledding. The experience is a bit of a journey; it takes place about a 30-minute drive from the main ranch, then up a winding road, into the mountains and onto groomed trails. You’ll hear the dogs before you see them. As soon as they sense the truck pulling up, they begin to howl with glee, knowing they’re about to get the chance to do their favorite thing in the world: run. I spent the next hour-and-a-half on the back of a sled, letting the wind whip my cheeks until my eyes ran with tears, losing feeling in my fingers, but mostly, just grinning with gratitude to be outdoors with an adorable pack of Alaskan Huskies.
My reward for braving the elements was dinner at Social Haus, the intimate restaurant reserved for guests of The Green O. There are few pleasures in life greater than walking into a cozy dining room after a brisk day in the snow. And Social Haus, with its aromas of fresh bread wafting out from the open kitchen, and a crackling fireplace, is the dining equivalent of a hug. The innovative menu is overseen by the aforementioned Cunningham, a Beard nominee for Best Chef: Mountain. Changing every night, the eight-course meal marries the flavors of the American West with fine-dining techniques and intricate plating; perfect for celebrating an anniversary or other milestone. One of my favorite bites was actually the first of the trip: an amuse bouche of crackly brioche French toast, topped with a briny dollop of caviar. Other favorites included a cheeky, deconstructed bagel and lox; and a prawn course served in an old-school Chinese takeout container.
But the highlights of this property—the activities, the food, the hauses—are all made especially magical by the staff here. They were kind enough to ferry me around from activity to meal and back again; greeted me warmly wherever I was on property; and even remembered my favorite type of tea every morning (it’s an iced chai, by the way). But the best example of their commitment to service might be the email I received from chef Cunningham upon arriving back in New York: the recipe for that singular, delicious bite of caviar French toast.
