Here’s the thing about pasta: while it’s incredibly versatile, a truly great bowl is frustratingly hard to find. People often mistake how commonly it pops up on a menu for an indication of reliability. But the rub, or sauce, of it all is that only a few spots actually serve exceptional pasta. Meaning: it’s not overcooked, overly complicated, or served over something suspect.
Brooklyn, naturally, has a solid selection of high-quality options for those seeking a saucy twirl of the fork. And so, to aid you in your journey for properly prepared and categorically authentic bites this weekend, or on any day of the week for that matter, we set out to do the deliciously dirty work of scouring the borough for the spots that do it better than damn-near anyone else. From smoky and inventive creations to more traditional takes, we dug up the dishes you’ll be proud to rant and rave about for years to come.
Scroll on for some of the best bowls of pasta we’ve come across lately.
Courtesy of Popina
Spaghetti with anchovy, butter, herbs and grana from Popina
127 Columbia St.
The menu at Popina is limited for a reason. The kitchen will only serve you what it makes best, including five or six pasta dishes that steer away from the traditional and pack a creative punch. Case in point: the spaghetti with anchovies, butter, cheese, and a slew of herbs. If you’ve never used anchovies in your pasta, the deep, rich, and complex flavor of this dish will make you entirely rethink your disposition.
Courtesy of La Rina
Smoked spaghetti aglio e olio from LaRina Pastificio & Vino
387 Myrtle Ave.
Despite being a staple on menus all across Italy, the traditional spaghetti aglio e olio—or, spaghetti with garlic and oil—is not nearly as ubiquitous on this side of the pond. LaRina Pastificio & Vino in Fort Greene makes a smoked version prepared with Calabrian chilies and hazelnuts. Although not exactly “classic,” it is certainly one of the best versions you could try in the borough. Prep your palate for all that spice with the crocchetta appetizer, which is a potato croquette with mozzarella and sausage that makes for a perfectly crunchy warm-up for the main show.
Courtesy of Forma
Mafaldine scampi from Forma
14 Bedford Ave. and 5 Greene Ave.
Forma is a literal pasta factory, so you can guarantee each dish receives the attention it deserves. One of the most popular entries on the menu is the mafaldine scampi, which is prepared with sauteed shrimps, white wine, lemon butter sauce, chili flakes, and garlic bread crumbs. Be warned, though: this specialty dish is a particularly rich and filling one, loaded with thick, saucy noodles, bread crumbs, and all of that shellfish. You might just end up with some leftovers if you’re not careful.
Courtesy of Al DI La
Spaghetti alla chitarra neri from Al Di La Trattoria
248 5th Ave.
Al Di La‘s dining room feels old-school, but the pasta is about as now as it gets. Take the spaghetti alla chitarra neri, for example. Usually made black with squid ink, the spaghetti here is drenched with hot red chili, basil, lemon, and octopus confit. Needless to say, only order it if you’re into very spicy meals or consider every meal to be a very special occasion.
Courtest of Caffe Spaghetti
Ricotta gnocchi from Cafe Spaghetti
126 Union St.
Despite the moniker, this cozy Carroll Gardens restaurant is about more than just pasta. The cicchetti, similar to Spanish tapas, are bite-sized plates served in Venice that reign supreme at Cafe Spaghetti alongside various antipasti. The eatery also goes big on dessert—the spumoni bombo and hazelnut gelato are delectable. But in terms of pasta, go for the deceptively decadent ricotta gnocchi, a pretty self-explanatory option you’ll want to order over and over again.
Courtesy of Misi
Spinach and mascarpone filled tortelli from Misi
329 Kent Avenue
Every bowl that leaves the kitchen at Misi, the famed Italian restaurant from Missy Robbins in Williamsburg, is somehow just as delicious as it is visually striking. In fact, it’d be perfectly reasonable to be tempted by it all. But if you try anything (or everything), make sure to take a minute with the spinach and mascarpone-filled tortelli. Drenched in brown butter and salty ricotta, each bite feels like a small detonation. A note about the shape: the stuffed noodle is typical of the Emilia-Romagna region in Italy, and it’s pretty hard to come by in New York. So this is a rare opportunity to grab a hyper-local delicacy. Don’t pass it up.
Courtesy of Ammazzacaffè
Gemelli verde from Ammazzacaffè
702 Grand St.
Dining at Ammazzacaffè is one of the most relaxing and enjoyable culinary experiences you could hope for. The spot is laid-back, and while the service is great year-round, the patio just feels like summer. In terms of food, the menu focuses on lesser-known Italian pastas that are made fresh under their roof, including the gemelli verde. Shaped like a twisted spiral (the word gemelli means twins in Italian), the noodles here are served with spinach, maitake mushrooms, and goat cheese. Fun fact: there’s no egg in Ammazzacaffè’s pasta, and each dish can be made vegan-friendly.
Courtesy of Terre
Spaghettone with three ancient tomato varieties from Terre
341 5th Ave.
At Terre, you absolutely must order the spaghettone with three ancient tomato varieties. They are the pomodorino del Piennolo del Vesuvio from Campania, a rare variety from the Monti Lattari area, and a variety grown locally in Puglia. After all, when does one get a chance to taste three distinct and authentic Italian tomato strains in a single bite?
Photo by Michael Gonik
Gnocchi pesto Genovese from Macosa Trattoria
310 Tompkins Ave.
Although some dishes at Macosa Trattoria hinge on the American, the neighborhood spot’s pesto gnocchi is prepared with heaps of Italian flair. Originating in Genoa, traditional pesto Genovese is made with basil, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil, and cheese, which is exactly how the cooks at Macosa create it (in-house, of course), with just fistfuls of pecorino in each bite.
Courtesy of Piccola Cucina Casa
Pasta Siciliana con porcini alla gricia from Piccola Cucina Casa
141 Nevins St.
Everything about the Piccola Cucina Casa in Boerum Hill is top notch: the ambiance, the staff, the music (strictly Italian classics), the cocktails, and, chiefly, the food, which offers somewhat unconventional takes on fairly traditional plates. And there are plenty to choose from. Take, for instance, the maccheroni alla Norma cooked in tomato sauce with ricotta cheese and eggplant or a bucatini with cacio cheese originally developed in the Lazio region. But for something a bit “out there,” opt for the belly-busting—meant for at least two or three—homemade Sicialian pasta prepared with porcini mushrooms, pecorino cheese, and guanciale.
Courtesy of Roman’s
Spaghetti with smoked lentils, tomato, and rosemary from Roman’s
243 DeKalb Avenue
Although Roman’s in Clinton Hill certainly does not specialize in pasta dishes, we must include the restaurant’s inventive take on spaghetti, served here with smoked lentils, tomato, and a dash of rosemary. The dish—a dinner menu exclusive—is inspired by a traditional pasta e lenticchie (pasta with lentils), which is usually made with short, dilatini pasta. Sure, the Brooklyn eatery took some creative liberties, but the payoff is obscenely good.
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