A Modern Traveler’s Guide to Tokyo, Japan

Tokyo deals in specifics, not generalities. This isn’t a city that reveals itself in sweeping panoramas but in momentary glimpses: the businessman who carries a Hello Kitty handkerchief, the ancient shrine whose donation box accepts digital payments, the subway that moves eight million commuters daily without a hint of chaos. Whatever conclusion you reach about Tokyo, the next corner you turn will likely challenge it.

The seasonal calendar heavily influences when to visit Japan’s capital. Late March brings cherry blossom season, turning spots like Ueno Park and riverbanks along the Meguro into prime cherry blossom viewing spots packed with locals and tourists alike. November offers equally stunning fall foliage without the crowds. Summer months (June-August) bring uncomfortable humidity, while January delivers cold but clear skies—ideal for spotting Mount Fuji from observation decks.

Tokyo continues evolving with practical improvements for 2025. The Yamanote Line—the circular railway that serves as Tokyo’s navigational backbone—finishes its train station renovation project by August. Meanwhile, Ginza’s former Sony Building transforms into both Tokyo Food Hall and Ginza Sony Park, housing six floors of regional cuisine alongside a cultural venue hosting exhibitions by prominent Japanese artists in a distinctive concrete and steel frame that stands apart from neighboring skyscrapers.

Navigation proves surprisingly straightforward once you arrive. The metro system runs with remarkable precision (get a Suica card, if possible) and now features comprehensive English signage throughout public transportation, making travel through the city, along with day trips to destinations including Kamakura, Nikko and Hakone, easier than ever. The real challenge becomes choosing which of Tokyo’s distinct neighborhoods to explore: Asakusa with its temple complex (Senso-ji temple is the oldest in Tokyo) and traditional shops, Shibuya’s youthful energy, or the architectural innovation of Azabudai Hills. For dining experiences, particularly at establishments known to refuse foreign reservations, hotel concierges become invaluable allies. Even mid-range properties often maintain the connections needed to secure tables at exclusive spots like Sushi Saito, where Michelin recognition hasn’t changed the chef’s preference for Japanese-speaking guests.

What makes Tokyo fascinating isn’t just what it contains, but how it presents those elements with meticulous attention to detail. The city rewards those who observe closely rather than those who merely pass through.

Where to Stay

The Okura Tokyo



2-10-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku

This landmark Leading Hotels of the World property reopened in 2019 after a complete reconstruction that miraculously preserved the soul of the beloved original, with an emphasis on Japanese culture. The Prestige Tower houses 368 rooms, combining contemporary comfort with traditional Japanese elements, while the exclusive Heritage Wing, with just 17 suites, offers a more intimate experience. The iconic lobby—a midcentury icon that influenced generations of designers—has been painstakingly recreated with its distinctive pendant lights, geometric patterns and modernist furniture. The property’s eight restaurants include Yamazato, serving traditional kaiseki cuisine, and Sazanka, one of Tokyo’s finest teppanyaki establishments.

The Okura Tokyo.
The Okura Tokyo.

Hoshinoya Tokyo



1-9-1 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku

Behind a geometric metal lattice facade in Tokyo’s financial district sits this modern ryokan, where kimono-clad staff and strictly enforced shoe removal policies signal a departure from conventional luxury. The 84 rooms occupy six floors, each functioning as a self-contained ryokan with its own lounge serving seasonal teas. The rooftop onsen draws mineral-rich water from 4,921 feet underground, offering the rare experience of open-air bathing while surrounded by skyscrapers—assuming you’re comfortable with the Japanese tradition of communal nudity. It’s conveniently located a 10-minute walk from Tokyo Station, as well as the Imperial Palace.

Hoshinoya Tokyo.
Hoshinoya Tokyo.

Trunk(Hotel) Yoyogi Park



1-15-2 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku

This property made waves when it opened for its upcycled materials and locally sourced amenities, but it’s the rooftop infinity pool stretching toward the Yoyogi Park canopy that became its signature. The 15 rooms and suites incorporate salvaged wood and recycled materials without sacrificing comfort, while the lobby transforms throughout the day from morning workspace to evening gathering spot for Tokyo’s creative class—making it less of a hotel than a snapshot of contemporary Tokyo culture. If you have time, stop by the property’s sister hotel, Trunk(Hotel) Cat Street, situated between Shibuya and Harajuku, and have a drink at the Trunk Lounge.

Trunk(Hotel) Yoyogi Park.
Trunk(Hotel) Yoyogi Park.

The Tokyo Edition, Toranomon



4-1-1 Toranomon, Minato-ku

Ian Schrager’s boutique sensibility meets Japanese restraint in this 38-story tower, where architect Kengo Kuma has reimagined Buddhist temple elements for a secular age. The 206 rooms feature minimalist furnishings and uncluttered sight lines, but the real statement is the spectacular 31st-floor lobby, where soaring ceilings and a central staircase create a theatrical backdrop for an international crowd. The unexpected rooftop garden serves as Tokyo’s most improbable forest retreat, complete with views of nearby Tokyo Tower. This hotel is all about nightlife; there are a few dining and bar options, including Gold Bar, which offers drinks alongside izakaya-style plates.

The Tokyo Edition.

The Tokyo Edition.

What to Do

Kuramae



2-chome through 4-chome, Kuramae, Taito-ku

This riverside district once warehoused rice that served as Japan’s de facto currency during the Edo period. Today, its weathered buildings along the Sumida River house a different kind of capital: creative energy. Design studios, specialty coffeehouses and artisan workshops have colonized the neighborhood, drawing comparisons to Brooklyn—though with distinctly Japanese restraint. Stop at Tokyo Riverside Distillery (3-9-3 Kuramae, Taito-ku) to sample gins incorporating local botanicals, then browse hand-made stationery at Kakimori (4-20-12 Kuramae, Taito-ku), where custom notebooks are assembled with your choice of paper, cover and binding.

Kuramae.
Antoine Sanchez/Unsplash

Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum



5-21-9 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku

First-time visitors typically gravitate toward the Tokyo National Museum in Ueno, where six buildings house an encyclopedic collection of 110,000 Japanese artifacts. For those who’ve gained that foundational knowledge, this Art Deco jewel provides a more nuanced cultural lens. Completed in 1933 as Prince Asaka’s residence after his studies in Paris, the building itself exemplifies the cross-cultural exchange that transformed Japan during the early Showa period. The interiors showcase René Lalique’s original decorative elements, most notably a stunning glass-relief door panel of “Hunting Diana.” Though contemporary exhibitions rotate through the space, the true masterpiece remains the structure itself—a rare marriage of Japanese spatial concepts with European Art Deco detailing that offers insight into a pivotal moment when Japan embraced Western modernism.

Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum.
Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum.

Toyosu Fish Market


6-6-1 Toyosu, Koto-ku

The 2018 relocation of Tokyo’s legendary seafood market from Tsukiji to this massive, modern facility in Toyosu hasn’t diminished its importance as the heart of Japan’s marine cuisine. Though the sanitized, glass-enclosed viewing corridors lack some of old Tsukiji’s chaotic charm, they provide excellent vantage points for the famous tuna auctions (now viewable without the previous 3 a.m. queuing ritual). The upper-floor restaurants serve some of Tokyo’s freshest sushi; Sushi Dai maintains its reputation from Tsukiji times. Arrive by 8 a.m. to see market operations in full swing, then head to the rooftop garden for harbor views.

Nezu Museum



6-5-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku

Kengo Kuma’s architectural reimagining of this private collection creates a journey from urban intensity to meditative calm. A bamboo-lined approach leads to galleries housing ancient bronzes, calligraphy, paintings and ceramics, but the museum’s secret weapon is its garden. The nearly 431,000-square-foot space contains stone pathways, mossy ground cover, traditional teahouses and carefully placed Buddhist statuary. The contrast between the meticulously maintained garden and the surrounding Aoyama neighborhood exemplifies Tokyo’s genius for creating pockets of contemplation within urban chaos.

Nezu Museum.
YUJI HORI.

Makers’ Base Tokyo Kintsugi Workshop



1-1-11 Nakane, Meguro-ku

This innovative shared studio space, just a minute’s walk from Toritsudaigaku Station (a 10-minute ride from Shibuya), offers a contemporary approach to the centuries-old art of kintsugi. Their beginner-friendly workshops provide an accessible entry point to this distinctive Japanese repair technique without the skin irritation concerns of traditional natural lacquer. The studio utilizes food-safe synthetic lacquer and brass powder to create striking gold-seamed restorations on broken vessels. What distinguishes this experience is its versatility—participants can bring their own cherished pieces (whether ceramic, glass or even wooden items with sufficient thickness) or select from over 20 ready-to-repair vessels provided on-site.

Makers’ Base.
Makers’ Base.

Kappabashi Street


Between 1-chome and 3-chome, Matsugaya, Taito-ku

This specialized shopping district caters to restaurant professionals rather than sightseeing first-time tourists, which precisely explains its appeal. Stretching for several blocks between Ueno and Asakusa, its shops sell everything from professional-grade Japanese knives to commercial kitchen equipment. However, the street is best known for sampuru, the uncannily realistic food replicas displayed in restaurant windows throughout Japan. Stores like Maizuru showcase this uniquely Japanese art form, with everything from glistening ramen bowls to perfectly grilled unagi, offering a glimpse into a craft that’s both a commercial product and a cultural artifact.

Kappabashi Street.
Dheerna Matsubara/Unsplash

Where to Eat

Sushi Saito



Ark Hills South Tower, 1-4-5 Roppongi, Minato-ku

Chef Takashi Saito approaches his craft with the focus of a surgeon and the soul of an artist, creating what many consider Tokyo’s definitive sushi experience. Despite three Michelin stars, his eight-seat counter remains refreshingly unpretentious, with Saito’s warmth and occasional humor complementing fish that’s been aged, cured or precisely prepared according to traditional Edomae techniques. The atmosphere is surprisingly convivial, with Saito adjusting his pace to each group of diners. While the flagship location in Roppongi requires connections to secure, the newer outpost at Azabudai Hills offers slightly better odds.

Sushi Saito.
Sushi Saito.

Florilège



2-5-4 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku

Chef Hiroyasu Kawate’s two-starred restaurant puts diners around a horseshoe counter facing an open kitchen, creating culinary theater as much as dinner. Kawate’s Franco-Japanese cuisine incorporates elements of both traditions while belonging firmly to neither, with signature dishes like the Sustainable Beef Carpaccio—made from dairy cows typically overlooked by high-end restaurants—demonstrating both technical mastery and ethical concerns. The wine pairings favor small French producers, while the predominately Japanese staff delivers service that’s formal without being stiff.

Florilège.
Florilège.

Den



2-3-18 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku

Zaiyu Hasegawa has created the antidote to intimidating high-end dining at this two-Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurant. His playful approach includes dishes like “Dentucky Fried Chicken” served in a custom box with his signature cartoon face, and a monaka wafer sandwich hiding foie gras and persimmon. Despite the whimsy, the technical execution remains flawless throughout the seasonal multi-course progression. Chef Hasegawa’s mother and wife work alongside a team that treats first-timers with the same enthusiasm as regulars, making this perhaps Tokyo’s most welcoming gastronomic experience.

Den.
Den.

Ubuka



Aiesu Building 1F, 2-14 Arakicho, Shinjuku-ku

This one-Michelin-starred restaurant in Arakicho has quietly established itself as Japan’s preeminent specialist in shellfish cuisine. Chef Kunihiko Kato, drawing on training in traditional Kyoto kitchens, created Ubuka (meaning “first fragrance”) to showcase the subtle aromas and natural sweetness of crustaceans through precise technique. The menu centers entirely on shrimp and crab, handled with extraordinary care—kept alive until the moment of preparation to preserve their inherent flavors. Kato’s signature dish, fried shrimp elevated by his house-made soy-infused sauce américaine, reveals his talent for bridging Japanese tradition with Western culinary concepts.

Ubuka.

Tonki



1-1-2 Shimomeguro, Meguro-ku

This tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet) institution has operated with machine-like precision since 1939. The two-story space features counter seating around a central kitchen where staff in white uniforms and caps execute a choreographed production: coating pork in panko, frying it in deep copper pots of sesame oil, and precisely slicing the finished cutlets. The menu offers just two cuts—hire (lean) or rosu (fatty)—served with unlimited refills of shredded cabbage, rice, miso soup and pickles. Unlike many Tokyo institutions, Tonki doesn’t require reservations; instead, diners line up outside for what many consider the definitive version of this Japanese comfort food.

Nihonryori Byakuya



3-6-22 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku, The Room Kagurazaka B1F

Hidden beneath street level on Kagurazaka’s main thoroughfare, this eight-seat counter establishment exemplifies Tokyo’s talent for concealing exceptional dining experiences in unexpected places. Chef Kataoka crafts omakase courses that showcase Japan’s culinary calendar with remarkable seasonality. The minimalist space combines light wood with black accents, creating an atmosphere more Nordic than traditionally Japanese. Three-course options are available, ranging from the lunch omakase (around $66) to the premium evening experience (around $199), all showcasing the chef’s technical mastery across multiple preparations.

Nihonryori Byakuya.
Nihonryori Byakuya.

Where to Shop

Daikanyama Tsutaya Books



17-5 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku

This is what happens when Japan reimagines the concept of a bookstore. Three interconnected buildings designed by Klein Dytham Architecture create a “library in the woods” where books, music and film coexist with a sophisticated cafe and upscale convenience store. The carefully curated selection emphasizes art, design and architecture volumes, while the magazine section stocks rare international titles alongside Japanese publications. The attached Anjin lounge on the second floor serves as a whiskey bar surrounded by vintage magazines and art books.

Daikanyama Tsutaya Books.
Daikanyama Tsutaya Books.

Kapital



1-10-11 Kamimeguro, Meguro-ku

Japan’s most distinctive denim brand occupies a converted bathhouse where vintage Americana meets traditional Japanese techniques. Designer Kiro Hirata transforms workwear staples through Japanese indigo dyeing, boro (patchwork) techniques and sashiko embroidery, creating garments that command cult-like devotion among fashion insiders. The multi-level space displays one-of-a-kind pieces alongside the brand’s recurring designs, with staff who can explain the labor-intensive processes behind items that seem deceptively simple at first glance.

Nakano Broadway



5-52-15 Nakano, Nakano-ku

This aging shopping center has transformed from a 1960s retail development into Tokyo’s epicenter of otaku (geek) culture. A superior choice to the tourist-filled Akihabara district, the maze-like complex houses over 300 specialized shops selling vintage anime figures, rare manga, video game memorabilia and other collectibles that document Japan’s outsized influence on global pop culture, along with several izakayas. Several establishments owned by artist Takashi Murakami, including the retro game-themed Coffee Zingaro, give the commercial space artistic credibility, while the predominantly male clientele—ranging from teenagers to middle-aged collectors—provides a glimpse into subcultures typically invisible to tourists.

Nakano Broadway.

Dover Street Market Ginza



6-9-5 Ginza, Chuo-ku

Rei Kawakubo’s experimental retail concept occupies seven floors in Ginza, creating a multi-brand experience more akin to a contemporary art installation than a department store. Each floor features dramatically different environments showcasing both established designers and emerging talents, with many pieces exclusive to this location. The ever-changing installations and unexpected juxtapositions reflect Kawakubo’s influence on global fashion, while the top-floor Rose Bakery offers respite from the sensory overload below.

Dover Street Market Ginza.
Dover Street Market Ginza.

Where to Drink

Bar High Five



4F Efflore Ginza 5 Building, 5-4-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku

Legendary bartender Hidetsugu Ueno presides over this intimate space where Japanese bartending reaches its apotheosis. The 16-seat counter showcases the precise technique, attention to detail and subtle showmanship that define the Tokyo bar experience. There’s no menu; instead, staff engage guests in conversation to determine preferences before creating bespoke cocktails. Ueno’s signature White Lady involves a “hard shake” technique he developed to create a specific texture, while other cocktails might incorporate seasonal Japanese ingredients like yuzu or sakura. The bar’s unassuming entrance—a small elevator in a nondescript office building—epitomizes Tokyo’s preference for hidden treasures.

Bar High Five.
Bar High Five.

Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience



5F Spiral Building, 5-6-23 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku

Taka Sakurai spent 14 years mastering the art of tea before opening this minimalist sanctuary dedicated to sado, the Japanese “way of tea.” The eight-seat space reinterprets the traditional tea ceremony for contemporary sensibilities, with Sakurai preparing infusions behind a copper counter while explaining each variety’s characteristics and proper brewing technique. The tasting course (from $32) progresses through several expressions of Japanese tea, concluding with tea-based cocktails that bridge ancient tradition and modern mixology.

Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience.
Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience.

The SG Club



1-7-8 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku

Shingo Gokan’s multilevel bar creates three distinct drinking experiences within a single building. Guzzle on the ground floor channels a Prohibition-era speakeasy, while Sip one floor above evokes Japan’s first encounter with American bartending during the late Edo period. The recently added third space, Scheme, offers experimental cocktails. Each area has its own menu, with drinks incorporating unlikely ingredients like miso, seaweed or fermented rice alongside premium spirits.

The SG Club.
The SG Club.

Bar Trench



1-5-8 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku

Hidden on a quiet backstreet in Ebisu, this intimate space channels the speakeasy spirit with vintage apothecary décor and bartenders in crisp white lab coats. The cocktail menu reads like a pharmaceutical manual, dividing drinks into categories like “Medicinal Purposes” and “Prescriptions.” Their absinthe service is among Tokyo’s most authentic, while Japanese-inspired creations incorporate ingredients like umeshu (plum wine) or matcha. The bar’s understated entrance—marked only by a small light—embodies the Japanese concept of iki, an aesthetic that values sophisticated subtlety over ostentatious display.

Bar Trench.
Bar Trench.