The phrase “sense of place” gets tossed around so frequently that it’s nearly lost its meaning. It should be more than half-hearted attempts to weave in local culture by way of orchid-scented soaps in the bathroom, or local fruits at the breakfast buffet. But as any frequent traveler can tell you, the vast majority of hotels fall short of anything resembling a genuine commitment to highlighting local culture or traditions.
There are, thankfully, exceptions to the rule. And one way to make sure your guests are fully immersed in the area’s cultural narrative? Have them arrive via a high-speed boat after crossing a majestic body of water. Such is the case at La Lancha, a member of The Family Coppola Hideaways (yes, that Coppola family—Francis Ford Coppola is the owner) located on the banks of Lago Petén Itzá, Guatemala’s third largest lake.
By the time we reached the shore, my hair was whipped into something resembling a cartoon bird’s nest, but all was forgotten as soon as I was handed an ice-cold tropical fruit cocktail (and my daughter, her very own virgin version). As we sipped our drinks, gazing out at the lapping waters of Petén Itzá, we were also given instructions as to how to use the shellphone—no, that’s not a typo. Both at the bar near the lake as well as in each of the 10 rooms are giant conch shells that have been wired to act as phones (more a walkie-talkie system if we’re getting technical), and which, in my decade-plus career as a travel writer, I can assuredly say I’ve never seen before.
While the phones may be more of a wacky amenity than representative of authentic Guatemalan culture, they are an embodiment of the whimsical spirit of this property. It is a place where, because there are so few guests, you can use something like a shellphone to reach a staff member. And, just as important, it is also a place that relishes in delighting its guests, whether with an unusual communication system or clever interior touches, like giant throw pillows outfitted in traditional—and revered—Guatemalan textiles.
The sense of place here extends far beyond the welcome boat ride. Aside from the use of local textiles, which you’ll find in the bed linens, rugs, wall coverings and even the bath robes, the entire property is built into the side of a lush rainforest. And nothing reminds you that you’ve left Manhattan more than waking up to a jubilant, chattering chorus of parakeets outside your window. The rooms themselves also help ground guests in the jungle setting: we stayed in a two-bedroom rainforest casita, complete with an expansive deck and furniture sourced from local artisans.
The main lodge is similarly designed to be of the area; with a thatched roof, it nearly blends into the hillside above the hotel’s pool. The open-air building forms the main hub of the property (and also has the most reliable wifi, take note); it’s home to the on-site restaurant, La Vista Bonita, as well as the bar. As this was my first time in Guatemala, I wasn’t very familiar with the cuisine—even in New York, it’s not an easy one to track down. But as I found out very quickly, it’s one that I hope to incorporate far more into my diet. Breakfast here included a variety of fresh juices and flaky cinnamon rolls, while lunch and dinner focused on Guatemalan classics like dobladas de longaniza: homemade tortillas stuffed with sausage, avocado, and fresh tomato then doused in a piquant cream-based tomato sauce.
While we would have been happy enough to meander from breakfast to the pool or lake all day, one of the most magnificent architectural wonders of Central America is only about an hour away, and essentially a required visit. Tikal National Park is composed of the remnants of an ancient Maya city that had been mostly swallowed up by the jungle until archaeologists started to excavate the ruins in the 1880s. La Lancha provided my daughter and me with a private guide and driver, who made sure we got there right at opening to avoid both the heat and the crowds. But unlike the more famous site of Chichén Itzá in Mexico, the grounds here can be enjoyed without swarms of people—all the better to appreciate the staggering size and engineering skills of the impressive limestone pyramids.
Tikal may be the most popular off-site excursion, but La Lancha also offers a wealth of other experiences, including tours of the ceremonial center of Yaxhá and Topoxte, and helicopter adventures to the “lost city” of El Mirador. There are also a handful of on-property activities, including complimentary tortilla-making classes and a temazcal, a traditional Maya sweat lodge.
Getting to this pocket of northern Guatemala is not simple: we first took a flight from JFK to Guatemala City, then a second to Flores, and finally a 45-minute boat ride to the hotel (you can also drive from the airport). But finding a true sense of place often means a long journey—after all, to escape from the familiar, you have to actually leave it. As I watched dusk blanket Petén Itzá from my casita’s balcony, everything—sights, sounds, smells—was new. But I also knew exactly where I was: someplace beautiful, peaceful and comforting.
