Studio Bumi is Curing Urban Loneliness One Wild Dinner at a Time

Bagus Wicaksono Ruswandi, who insists we just call him Bagus—pronounced like “Ba-GOOSE”—moved to New York City from Jakarta in 2021 for school (pursuing his second Masters of Law) and work (at a law firm). Two years later he got laid off and, fortunately for us, decided to ditch the legal world and pursue his true passion: making friends, connecting people, and easing what he calls the plague of “urban loneliness”—all through food.

First came lunch parties for friends under the name Studio Bumi in his Park Slope apartment, for which Bagus taught himself how to make Indonesian favorites via YouTube. “It’s authentic because I make it,” he said. “And I’m Indonesian.” Then he started cooking for strangers at ThirdSpace in Bushwick, hosting weekly lunches where, in addition to honing his kitchen chops, he began collecting stories from his guests about how isolating, and lonely, the city can feel. And something clicked.  

“Yes, the food at Studio Bumi is Indonesian,” he said. “Yes, it’s delicious. But I don’t want to be known as a food person. I want to be known as a friend. The whole point of Studio Bumi is how communal dining can alleviate loneliness.” So now, at least twice a month, Bagus is hosting, in loud, loving, and often hilarious fashion, three-hour-long family-style dinner parties—”Food experiences,” is what he calls them—at St. Lydia’s in Gowanus.  

A peppy crew of young volunteers brings out platters of Indonesian dishes to the four tables packed with guests, which you pass around to all your tablemates/new-found friends. BYO wine, beer, or whatever other sort of booze you like is poured and shared. And throughout the night, in between his own mini-speeches and what you might call Studio Bumi mission statements, Bagus asks each person to stand up and introduce themselves to the candle-lit room, answering the prompt on the back of the menu that reads: “What’s a little something that someone did for you that made your day better?”

The introductions are cute, amusing, sometimes moving, and all refreshingly earnest. Bagus himself is a charismatic, flamboyant presence, setting the tone that we are here to have fun together. Mingling and seat-switching between courses is encouraged. And afterwards Bagus sends around a form to gather and share… well, whatever information about yourself you want to give to everyone else you just ate with.

The dinner menu itself changes every month, but in March the meal featured nine dishes. I really liked my bowl of sup kentang dan daun bawang, a creamy potato, leek, and coconut milk soup; the ayam goreng sambal matah—which was basically a mountain of well-seasoned fried chicken— the ikan sambal kelapa, a whole roasted fish blanketed in things like spiced coconut flakes and bird’s eye chili; the crackling shrimp chips called kerupuk udang; and the pandan dessert crepe stuffed with coconut and drenched in palm sugar sauce.

Both April dinners are already sold out, but the May and June dates just went live, so if you want to get in on the fun, and have $95 to spend on dinner, don’t hesitate. Clearly, Bagus has tapped into something here. “To be able to create something that resonates, it’s just magic for myself,” he said. “It feels really fulfilling. The food is great, but the fact that I am able to ensure that you are not alone in this room… that is enough for me.”  

Studio Bumi’s “Just Dinner” series is held at St. Lydia’s in Gowanus, 304 Bond Street between Sackett and Union Streets. Tickets are currently still available for May 1, May 29, June 12, and June 19.  

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