There’s an undeniable allure to the Nile. Even as our ship sails through an incoming sandstorm and forces all of the passengers inside, the draw is palpable. The air is thick with brown haze, and the sun can barely glint through, although the children swimming on the nearby banks seem undeterred. It’s the end of Ramadan in late March, so the kids are out of school and watch the ship with interest as the captain pauses our journey to get better visibility. Everyone onboard the Viking Aton gathers by the windows to marvel at the change of weather: a real Egyptian sandstorm. But as quickly as the dust has accumulated in the air, the sun reemerges and we sail onward.
It’s nearing the end of my 11-day Egypt experience, and there’s always something new to see. It’s easy to sit on the deck of the sleek Viking river ship—one of six in the cruise line’s Nile fleet—and observe the passing river and its banks. We pass through villages and larger cities, areas of mountainous desert, and rows of palm trees and tangled reeds. Stray dogs and cats populate the shores, and water buffalo graze on the islands.
Leisure travelers have been sailing the Nile for decades, an experience immortalized in Agatha Christie’s 1937 novel Death on the Nile, and it’s only become more popular in recent years.
Today, there are more than 300 cruise ships carrying passengers between Luxor and Aswan, located in southern Egypt. A typical cruise itinerary begins on land—more specifically, a hotel in Cairo, with excursions to the pyramids of Giza and the Egyptian Museum, before flying to Luxor, where most of the ships dock. Many, like my Viking itinerary, include seven nights onboard before returning to Cairo. While it is possible to visit popular destinations like the Valley of the Kings, where 64 tombs have been excavated, by car, train or bus, a Nile cruise is the most convenient and comfortable way to experience Egyptian history and culture.
Ahmed Wasfat, an Egyptologist and my program director on the Viking Aton, points out that going by cruise means you can maximize your time and see more sites. Plus, the trains in Egypt are usually slow and uncomfortable. “You stop once or twice a day, and get on and off,” he says of cruising. “You have all the services of a hotel, but with the chance to enjoy sailing. The Nile offers a magnificent experience that you can really feel—being able to watch the farmlands, the people and their way of life shows you something more authentic.”
After three nights in Cairo at the Fairmont Nile City, our Nile journey begins in Luxor, a city known for its well-preserved Luxor Temple and Karnak Temple, which are connected by a lengthy row of statues known as the Avenue of Sphinxes. On the first day, we see both temples, guided by Wasfat and the ship’s two other program directors, and have a few hours of free time. On the second day, we finally set sail. It’s hot, especially for March, but most passengers ascend to the upper deck. People wave from the shores. Small row boats appear alongside the ship and vendors shout “one dollar!” as they wave scarves and trinkets (most of which are made in China) in the air. In the afternoon, we dock in Qena to see Dendera Temple, an impressive complex of buildings and statues that stands out as my favorite of the many temples we eventually see.
Most days focus on ancient history, both on the ship and in Cairo. There are opportunities to visit the older Egyptian Museum, which houses the treasures of King Tut, and the brand new Grand Egyptian Museum, which is bigger than the Louvre. In the Valley of the Kings, we see King Tut’s actual mummy—the guard will photograph his face with your cell phone for one dollar—and descend into the burial chamber of Seti I, one of the most decorated tombs. We battle 100-plus-degree heat at the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, a highly-photographed temple set into the mountain, and battle crowds at the Kom Ombo Temple. But other days showcase contemporary Egypt: a local market, the city of Aswan, a modern Nubian village.
On most Nile cruises, some excursions are optional and come at an additional fee. For example, many travelers opt to partake in a sunrise hot air balloon ride in Luxor, but I skipped that in favor of the day trip to Abu Simbel, a temple built by Ramesses II in the far south of Egypt, near the Sudan border. It was a very long day that required another charter flight, but it was worth it—the temple stands out as one of the most memorable places I’ve ever visited.
Each cruise line offers a slight variation of these experiences. Viking’s is called “Pharaohs & Pyramids” itinerary, while AmaWaterways, which currently has two ships on the Nile, sails a similar 11-night “Secrets of Egypt & the Nile” itinerary. Guests can pay to book their Abu Simbel excursion ahead of travel; Viking required me to book 30 days before embarkation.
Like tourism to Egypt overall, the Nile is becoming so popular that cruise companies are rapidly adding new ships to their fleets. Viking will introduce four additional ships in the next two years—the Viking Amun and the Viking Thoth in 2025, and the Viking Sekhmet and the Viking Ptah in 2026. Luxury travel company Abercrombie & Kent will launch its fifth Egyptian riverboat this fall, and recently unveiled two new itineraries, “Egypt in a Week” and “A Nile Cruise for the Holiday Season.” Guests can also sign up for their customized “The Wonders of Ancient Egypt” itinerary. The additions are great news for travelers, but many cruise lines still encourage guests to book as soon as possible.
“For both travelers and advisors, my advice is to secure bookings early,” Jennifer Campbell, Global Group Product Manager for the Middle East, North Africa and India at Abercrombie & Kent, tells Observer. She adds that there is always a “strong resurgence” for destinations like Egypt after travel lulls like the pandemic. “With the highly anticipated opening of the Grand Egyptian Museum on the horizon, it’s wise to plan and book for late 2025 or 2026 before demand peaks,” Campbell adds.
Even on luxury expeditions, some of the aspects of cruising that deter anti-cruise travelers are, admittedly, still present on Nile voyages. Meals are sometimes held communally, which forces mingling. Moving through a crowded museum along a group of 20 alongside a guide can be tricky. Your time is not always your own. But for somewhere like Egypt, and specifically the Nile, it’s the best way to see everything and to better understand the history and culture—at least, for those that aren’t booking an entirely private jaunt to Egypt, with a personal guide for the trip. The guides not only know everything about ancient Egypt, but they can clue you in on how to avoid scams, how to deal with overly pushy vendors and when it’s appropriate to tip, which ensures less travel anxiety.
Wasfat says the Egyptian government strongly supports the country’s rise in tourism. In 2024, Egypt welcomed 15.7 million visitors, up from 14.9 million in 2023. The government hopes to double that number by 2030. New hotels are on the horizon, and the Grand Egyptian Museum, known as the GEM, has been in the works for years. On our cruise, tourism police officers joined us on several excursions and drives, including to and from the airport. That’s not completely due to safety concerns; it’s because the government wants to prioritize visitors, especially those from the West.
“Tourism is a great source of income, plus the rehabilitation of Egypt as a safe country for tourists supports the political regime,” Wasfat says, acknowledging the existence of propaganda in Egypt prioritizing visitors. He has noticed a huge evolution since Viking launched its first Nile cruise in 2008. “Viking didn’t have their own ships,” he notes. “But now there is so much demand for the Nile, and soon they will have 10 ships. You can see how much it’s grown.”
Unlike some ocean cruises, which tend to appeal to an older demographic, the Nile has a greater appeal to both retirees and younger travelers. My ship was a mixed bag, including parents traveling with adult children, older couples, and pairs of friends. The itinerary is full-on and active, and it’s not a particularly restful trip, which is something to bear in mind. The four nights in Cairo offer an opportunity to explore local restaurants and neighborhoods (I liked Zamalek), and the onboard dining is casual, with daily menu options that showcase Egyptian cuisine. Not everyone on my cruise went out solo in Cairo or Aswan, but Wasfat assures that it’s safe to explore.
“Go interact with the people,” he says. “Go to enjoy the restaurants and the local food. Egyptians are very friendly. I encourage people to interact with the local culture. Try something you wouldn’t try at home. Our society is something you can’t describe until you feel it, so you need to immerse yourself. Sometimes people come and their families say, ‘You are crazy going to the Middle East.’ I tell them, ‘Don’t answer them now. Wait until the end of the trip and just send them the pictures.’”
After the sandstorm disperses, we sail north back to Luxor. Passengers tell the crew farewell and offer tips to their favorite servers in the bar and restaurants. I scroll through hundreds of photos, unsure which ones to post and which ones to keep for myself. And Wasfat is right: it’s hard to describe the feeling of being in Egypt and walking through the ancient temples, the vibrant colors of the paintings still intact, and seeing the banks of the Nile pass by. It’s a place that calls for your return, summoning you back for more or just to see it all again. Even with the crowds and the aggressive vendors and the pollution, it’s too beautiful and unparalleled to deny. A bucket list item waiting to be ticked.
