Point to the city of Chicago on a map, then draw the letter “U” along the shore of Lake Michigan, and your finger will land on the tiny little town of New Buffalo, the heart of what locals call Harbor Country. With a beautiful marina, lakefront sandy stretches along Lake Michigan that are doppelgängers for ocean beaches, and a high concentration of great local restaurants, the area has long been a vacation area for Windy City dwellers. Populations tend to swell in the summer months of July and August, but up until recently, the area was mostly a seasonal getaway.
Over the last few years, though, community-focused projects like Granor Farm have drawn an even higher caliber of chef, such as James Beard Award finalist and cookbook author Abra Berens, who now serves as the property’s culinary director. The farm’s impact on the area has been enormous. The abundance of organic produce, seedlings, herbs and flowers created a local ecosystem that can support other restaurants and local chefs, while the fine-dining service offered during their Taste of Granor meals raised expectations across the area.
At the same time, young winemakers have begun to explore the potential of growing vines in the region due to the porous, rocky soils left behind by receding glaciers on the lakeshore. This quickly-draining terroir, along with proximity to the lake’s microclimates, makes it an ideal pocket for planting vineyards, and a new generation is following in the footsteps of the area’s earliest pioneering winemaker, Jim Lester at Wyncroft Wine.
There are other, more practical reasons the area is thriving. People of all ages moved out of cities like Chicago in waves during the pandemic, driven partly by the rise of remote work and partly by increasing rent in urban areas. When these newcomers decamp to smaller communities like Michigan’s Harbor Country, some of them open bottle shops that double as indie music venues, like the recently unveiled Out There, or Southern cafes like Viola, and the result is a food and wine oasis that’s batting way out of its league.
With a pair of excellent, locally owned boutique hotels, an agriculturally driven brewery, and a day-to-night deli that morphs into a speakeasy at sundown, this little enclave has all the makings of America’s next great food and wine scene. And since it’s only about 90 minutes by car from Chicago, and less than an hour from South Bend and Kalamazoo, it’s easily accessible from quite a few directions. Here’s a rundown on the best of what Harbor Country, and a couple of neighborhoods just beyond it, have to offer.
The Ultimate Guide to Harbor Country, Michigan
Where to Stay
Marina Grand Resort
600 W Water Street, New Buffalo, MI 49117
Located right on the edge of the sparkling Oselka Marina, a full-service harbor that’s a big part of why so many locals flock here every summer, Marina Grand Resort is a luxury property with pretty much everything a visitor could possibly want on vacation. Nearly every room at the 78-key property has a view of the marina; it’s a great home base for those passing through for a few days. Longer-stay guests can spread out in one of their expansive, apartment-style suites, which include a king bedroom, living room, dining table, fireplace and full kitchen, plus two walk-out balconies. Designed with lots of light, bright wood and blue and white accents that nod to the waterfront outside, modern art from local artists rounds out the elevated coastal vibe. It’s the epitome of lake house living, without the hassle of home ownership. The lobby features a full coffee bar that offers fresh pastries, plus a pop-up from Stand Magazines, a collection of sleek print publications curated by local writer Lena Singer. A seasonal rooftop lounge and outdoor pool open every summer, while the indoor saltwater pool and jacuzzi are available year-round. Beach cruisers, beach towels and chairs are also complimentary for guests to borrow in season.
Marina Grand Resort.
Marina Grand Resort
Harbor Grand
111 W Water St, New Buffalo, MI 49117
The slightly smaller sister hotel to Marina Grand, Harbor Grand was the original property on the marina, and has the same lake house feel and waterfront views. Located just a five-minute walk apart, the hotels easily share services, including restaurants (more on that below) and treatments in the harborfront Foundation Spa, though the facilities are located within Harbor Grand. With just 50 rooms, this property’s cozy footprint is bolstered by accommodations with fireplaces and soaking tubs or walk-in showers, plus Grown Alchemist products and plush robes. Every stay includes a complimentary picnic basket breakfast delivered to your door for breakfast in bed, with options like a frittata, croissant, chia pudding and more. For a bit of pampering, head downstairs for a massage or a swim in the indoor saltwater pool and hot tub. Better yet, this guesthouse is barely even a block from the beach, so lakefront morning walks or afternoon lounging on sunny days are another perk.
Harbor Grand.
Harbor Grand
Where to Eat
Granor Farm
3520 Warren Woods Rd, Three Oaks, MI 49128
Granor Farm first opened in 2006, but has grown significantly in size and scope over the last two decades. This certified organic farm in Three Oaks, Michigan, was initially founded by Rob Buono and Liz Cicchelli as a 10-acre vegetable garden and education center. It now spans over 400 acres, includes a distillery, and hosts various events like a farm camp every year. Granor grows over a hundred varieties of vegetables, grains, flowers and herbs that are used by many chefs around the community, but their Taste of Granor dinners are still the best way to experience the bounty for yourself.
Now under the stewardship of culinary director Abra Berens, these multi-course meals are hosted in the stunning greenhouse and exclusively feature ingredients from the farm. The menu at a recent dinner included preparations like radish and beet carpaccio with ramp chili crisp, kale and cabbage salad with confit potatoes, and lamb ragu served over shishito polenta. Ingredients change seasonally, but expect five to six courses, plus wine pairings from local partner Stranger Wine, which custom-makes specialty southwest Michigan wines just for Granor.
Granor Farm.
Granor Farm
David’s Deli
30 N Whittaker St, New Buffalo, MI 49117
One of the most heartwarming stories in town, David’s Deli is run by married couple Emma Brewster and Joe Lindsay, who took over from the original owners back in 2009 when they were 22 and 23, respectively. Lindsay grew up in Chicago and spent summers in New Buffalo with his parents; he worked at the sandwich shop as a teenager when it first opened. Lindsay told the original owners he’d love to own a spot like David’s one day; he assumed a step like that would come much later in life. But when the owners called him two weeks later about taking over, he and Brewster took the leap and never looked back.
Now veterans in the deli space, they offer an incredible array of sandwiches, including several vegetable-focused options, plus plenty of preserved meats and house-made pickles. There are three kinds of Reubens on the menu, including a breakfast Reuben with an egg on it—an ideal way to start the day. The vibe is buzzy and casual, and the space functions as a morning meetup space for the community. They source ingredients from local farmers and producers in the area, including Granor Farms for produce, grains and legumes, and 5L Farms in Berrien Center, MI, for grass-fed beef.
David’s Delicatessen & Coffee.
David’s Delicatessen & Coffee
Infusco Coffee
5846 Sawyer Rd, Sawyer, MI 49125
Ask anyone around southwest Michigan for a good spot to grab a cup of joe and do a bit of laptop work, and Infusco comes up consistently. This independent coffee shop serves hand-roasted coffee and that inimitable cozy atmosphere. It’s always a nice change of pace to go small with coffee when there’s a solid local option, and this place has everything from nitro cold brew to elaborate espresso drinks, and the choice between light or dark roast for the brew of the day. Plus, they have a host of baked goods—get the ham and cheese croissant if you’re feeling peckish. The original location in downtown Sawyer opened back in 2017 when owner Aaron Darling took over as local roaster. The brand is getting so popular that they opened a second location in the nearby town of St. Joseph, at The Market on Main Street, a year-round, indoor farmer’s market open seven days a week.
Infusco Coffee.
Infusco Coffee
Viola
102 N Elm St, Three Oaks, MI 49128
Scott King and Anthony Bellon are two Southern expats who wanted to bring a taste of the region to their new home in Michigan. Finding truly authentic Southern food isn’t totally impossible in the Midwest, but it’s still exceedingly rare, which is definitely part of why Viola Cafe was an instant hit. From fried green tomatoes to crawfish etouffee, fluffy biscuits and beignets, and unmissable pimento cheese, this delightfully kitschy spot overdelivers on flavor.
Though all the dishes are inspired by recipes from the couple’s family matriarchs, the cafe itself was named Viola in its last iteration, and the new owners chose to keep the name. Louisiana-born Bellon runs front of house at the restaurant with plenty of southern charm, and back of house duties get lots of input from Alabama native King, led by chef Shelley Young, who owned The Chopping Block cooking schools in Chicago. Open five days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the restaurant frequently throws special events and southern-themed meetups, so keep an eye out for additional programming when you’re in town.
Viola.
Viola
Brentwood Tavern
600 W Water St, New Buffalo, MI 49117
The flagship restaurant at Marina Grand doubles as one of the best spots in the city to partake in elevated, locally sourced gastropub fare while taking in marina views. The smoked whitefish dip, made using only fish sourced from Lake Superior, is a must-order starter; it’s a great companion for a crisp white wine, and the crunchy sourdough toast points are better than crackers. A double-cut pork chop served on a bed of roasted brussels sprouts and fingerling potatoes is more than enough for two people, and the fried chicken special is so popular that locals routinely come in just to get that on the days it’s available. The wine list encompasses a handful of Michigan producers, like the Talis sparkling brut from Mawby on the Leelanau Peninsula, which routinely attracts national attention, and a Chablis-style by-the-bottle 2024 chardonnay from Stranger Wines. For dessert, a generous wedge of double chocolate cake is great for the table to share, or to take up to your room and savor in front of your own personal fireplace.
Brentwood Tavern.
Brentwood Tavern
PostBoy
207 N Whittaker St, New Buffalo, MI 49117
A newcomer to the downtown strip in New Buffalo, this restaurant’s close proximity to the passing Amtrak is grandfathered into the deed of its historic building. The drama of a train rushing by the window during your appetizer course, or just before dessert, is a surprisingly welcome perk for most, and even if it’s not your speed, the quality of the plates will make up for it. After the success of his restaurants Houndstooth and Anemel in nearby Benton Harbor, chef James Galbraith teamed up with owner Ben Holland for PostBoy.
James Beard Award-nominated Galbraith has created a genuinely interesting menu here, with hints of sweetness and unique textures worked into even the savory options. Appetizer highlights include the tuna carpaccio topped with a caraway crisp and paired with creamy ajo blanco, plus a French onion dip served with crunchy, home fries-style potatoes for dipping. Vegetarians will be thrilled with the hefty sweet potato served atop cashew tahini and dusted with crispy chickpeas, or barbecue carrots smothered in spicy chimichurri. Short rib is a go-to for carnivores, and an “Orange Julius” panna cotta is a creative sweet finish. The space itself is a bright mix of Danish minimalism, pastel colors, and retro diner vibes. In the summer, grab a seat on their massive front patio to indulge in the cocktail menu as golden hour hits over the lake.
PostBoy.
PostBoy
Farmette
18439 US Hwy 12, New Buffalo, MI 49117
Barely two years old, this marketplace, bakery and cafe from organic farmer and environmentalist Katie Burdett is one of the brightest, sunniest spots in town, with large windows, lots of outdoor space, and the owner’s own no-till and no-spray farm and garden. Burdett worked as a gardener for chef Rick Bayless in Chicago and at Granor Farms before opening Farmette in 2024. Now, inspired by the bounty of fresh fruits and vegetables growing in the area, and eager to bring sustainable produce into the city, she’s struck out on her own to provide a venue for New Buffalo residents to shop through the best of what’s grown in their own backyard. Aside from the produce, the bakery program, which churns out fresh sourdough boules daily, is another reason to visit. From tahini sesame to Castelvetrano olive, and the traditional plain, these tend to sell out quickly. Come early if you want to get a loaf, and pick up some local wine, prepared food, and curated local cheese and meat while you’re at it. Nota bene: This cafe also has the best cold brew in town.
Farmette.
Farmette
Terrace Room
111 W. Water St, New Buffalo, MI 49117
The menu at the Terrace Room leans Italian, but it’s another great place to taste through the bounty of farm-fresh ingredients in the region. Located on the ground floor of the Harbor Grand, this place is packed on the weekends, so make a reservation even if you’re staying at the hotel. Start with fluffy focaccia that pairs beautifully with whipped ‘nduja chive butter for some savory and spicy elements, then move to a house salad full of local lettuces like radicchio, fennel and arugula, topped with hazelnuts for a crunch. Since most of these greens are grown within a few miles of the venue, there’s a constant freshness, even as the ingredients change seasonally.
The tagliolini is by far the best thing on the menu: a generous pasta served in a rich saffron-infused broth and dotted with clams, scallops, calamari, shrimp, tomato and Aleppo pepper. Topped with dill and finished with lemon and a dash of pinot grigio, it’s a contender for one of my favorite dishes of the year, and easily my favorite meal while in town. A stiff martini or an amaro might be the perfect nightcap.
Terrace Room.
Terrace Room
Emma Hearth + Market
9709 Red Arrow Hwy, Bridgman, MI 49106
Bridgman is pretty far inland from the beaches of New Buffalo (about a 20-minute drive), but if you find yourself tasting at Domaine Berrien (see below), this is the ideal next stop. Whether you’re searching for a snack to complement a bit of a wine buzz or just interested in phenomenal pizza, Emma will scratch the itch. It’s also got a stellar wine list of its own that focuses entirely on Italian bottles, many of which pair well with their made-to-order pies. Offering wood-fired pizza in both New York and Detroit-style crust, the standout pie by far is the Satan’s Kiss, a spicy pizza seasoned with either mild cherry peppers or Calabrian chiles, then smothered in aged soppressata salami and gobs of fresh mozzarella. There are pastas, sandwiches, salads and on the menu too, but these pizzas are no joke, and would also make sense to take to-go if you’ve purchased a nice bottle of red from one of the wineries or bottle shops.
Emma Hearth + Market.
Emma Hearth + Market
Where to Drink
Stranger Wine
201 E Front St, Buchanan, MI 49107
Husband-and-wife team Maxx Eichberg and Sydney Finan manage every aspect of their winery together. The couple purchased the Avonlea Estate from a pioneer in the region, Jim Lester, in 2021; Lester now focuses on his own estate farther north. Eichberg is the primary winemaker for Stranger Wine, but both he and Finan work regularly on the viticulture side, and strongly believe great wine is made more in the vineyard than in the winery. Along with their own estate, they farm another local vineyard and also purchase fruit from around the area. Their small batch, low-intervention approach is on full display at their tasting room in downtown Buchanan, where every single pour is a standout. These wines sell out fast, so taste and buy what you can while it’s available, and keep an eye out for big things from this quickly rising label.
Stranger Wine.
Stranger Wine
Out There
12312 Red Arrow Hwy, Sawyer, MI 49125
Out There is so much more than a bottle shop; it doubles as both a wine bar and a de facto indie music venue when musician friends of owners Penny Duff and Michael Slaboch pass through town. The venue hosts tiny live shows whenever possible, but during my recent visit, synth-folk legend Helado Negro was casually DJing at the shop to celebrate Record Store Day.
After leaving Chicago, Duff and Slaboch unveiled this wine oasis in a 1950s-era former Shell station with another friend, Molly Kobelt, who has a background in flower farming at Chicago’s Field & Florist, in mid-2023. Well-versed in events and hospitality from their time running the catering and events company, The Storehouse, the couple stocks wine from all over the world, so expect everything from crisp Loire Valley whites and austere Austrian reds to local bottles from Stranger Wines.
Out There.
Out There
Seedz
16321 Red Arrow Hwy, Union Pier, MI 49129
The low-level hum of microbrew culture in the United States for the last several decades is so ubiquitous that some Americans might forget just how rich the international history of beer-making really is. At Seedz, owner and New Buffalo native Ryan Ziarko pays homage to his Czech heritage—and to European beer in general—by reviving classic beer-making styles from around the world. His constantly changing list is informed by the local grains available to him and by how he can use them in Belgian, German and other brewing traditions.
“We use almost 100 percent ingredients from the Midwest, creating a European style with an American twist,” Ziarko tells Observer. “We’re technique-driven, so any Czech lager is fully made with Czech brewing techniques, the same with German and English beers, so we try to do everything as traditionally as we can. It’s partially so people who have never traveled can get that experience.” That “z” in the name? Also an homage to his own last name, and the prevalence of the letter in the Czech language. Not only does this place serve traditional beer made with local ingredients, but it doubles as a great place to catch a game.
Seedz.
Seedz
False Front
30 N Whittaker St, New Buffalo, MI 49117
The twin shadow of David’s Deli, this delightful speakeasy only comes out at night, as a curtain and a bar on wheels transform the daytime hang into a cozy in-town bar. As one of the few non-restaurant places to grab a drink in New Buffalo, this cocktail-focused joint is beloved by locals, and serves as a welcome surprise for any visitors who happen to stumble upon it. It doesn’t hurt that it’s within easy walking distance from either of the two main hotels.
The menu conveniently ranks their cocktails from breezy to boozy, so you can stick to your preferred consumption range. Stocked with a beer list of Michigan favorites, including rotating favorites from Seedz and a specialty European bottle list, and an international wine-by-the-glass list that favors affordability, there are also mocktails and bar snacks to round out the offerings. They’re excellent at churning out the classics—I ordered a Last Word, and it was a perfect rendition of chartreuse and gin, brandied cherry and all.
False Front.
Wesley Moguel
Tom Cat Tavern
18 N Elm St, Three Oaks, MI 49128
Discover the joys of “fine diving” with a late-night visit to Tom Cat Tavern, where the art of mixing high-brow and low-brow together has been perfected. A play on both the fine dining and dive bar traditions, Tom Cat marries the best of elevated ingredients and technique with the lovable camp of a great watering hole. Abby Voss moved to Michigan over a decade ago, and came up in drinking institutions like False Front and Nelson’s Tavern before opening her own joint in 2024. Cocktails and mocktails here are superb, though frozen drinks reign supreme, and their signature piña colada is always the best move—especially if you pair it with their cheese curds. These aren’t just any other fried cheese delight, though: these curds are tossed in ranch seasoning before hitting the deep fryer, for a Doritos-style flavor profile that is as wonderfully low-brow as it comes. My guess is that ranch washing their liquor is next.
Tom Cat Tavern.
Tom Cat Tavern
P. & E. Bottle Shop
2 Maple St, Three Oaks, MI 49128
Once a tiny corner shop with international wines galore, this bottle shop recently got a makeover that not only opened it up to the main street of Three Oaks, but also almost tripled the space inside. In its new iteration, owners Pat and Ellie Mullins plan to expand their wine programming to classes and events, and also offer space for guests to open up bottles they’ve purchased and sit for a drink. Snacks will be available, too, turning this well-stocked shop into another destination for a glass and a nosh. As that’s all coming together, keep checking in with their existing shop for highly customized bottle recommendations from some of the best wine minds around.
P. & E. Bottle Shop.
Wesley Moguel
Domaine Berrien Cellars
398 E. Lemon Creek Rd, Berrien Springs, MI 49103
Domain Berrien is the chance to experience the old guard of Michigan wine and the new generation that’s taking over, all in one go. Originally founded in 1992 by Tom and Abigail Fricke, this 80-acre cherry farm was torn out and replanted with vineyards. After several years of establishing the grapes, the Frickes’ daughter, Katie, and her husband, Wally Mauer, took over, establishing Domaine Berrien in 2001 and specializing in estate-grown wines for the next decade. Ready to retire, the couple handed the reins over to two employees in 2022, and now winemaker Amy Birk and viticulturist Jacob Nivison run this historic winery together. Birk has a degree in chemistry and works as a professor for the nearby Lake Michigan College’s wine and viticulture program; Nivison has degrees in both enology and viticulture from California Polytechnic State University. Skip the sweet wines with high residual sugar on this menu, but their dry wines, especially the astonishing cabernet franc, are proof of what can be accomplished in this terroir.
What to Do
Foundation Spa
111 W Water St, New Buffalo, MI 49117
It’s rare to encounter a full-service spa in a town of less than 2,000 people, but since this one comes with access to a saltwater pool, it’s an even easier sell. If you don’t end up staying in one of these two main hotels, then booking a spa treatment is a great way to get a couple of hours of downtime to soak in the pool and relax before a massage, body treatment or facial. With five different massage types, three body wraps and one scrub, and five kinds of facials (plus enhancements like red light therapy and microcurrent lifts), this spa is more than just an afterthought. Luxuriate in the sugar glow scrub if you’re a lavender lover, or get a customized rub down with Voya essential oils if a Swedish massage is more your speed.
Foundation Spa.
Foundation Spa
Warren Dunes State Park
12032 Red Arrow Hwy, Sawyer, MI 49125
The lakefront beaches just a block or two from the hotel are so obvious to spot that they don’t really need their own callout, but absolutely shouldn’t be missed. For something farther off the beaten path, almost any local will direct you to Warren Dunes State Park. There is a fee to enter the park for day use, but it can easily be avoided by foregoing the main entrance and heading just north to enter via Floral Lane. The dunes are filled with walkable trails, some covered with sand and some not, but the payoff for finishing the Mt. Randall Loop is a magnificent view of the lake among the dunes and tall grasses, worth any amount of sweat equity involved. This loop runs about four miles and offers several panoramic views, and the chance to head down to the water for a quick rest and a few photos of the coastline before returning is another highlight.
Warren Dunes State Park.
Warren Dunes State Park
